Léa, a talented chef, invites you to discover the treasures of the sea through ethical and eco-conscious cuisine. With a passion for fresh Mediterranean products, she carefully selects fish from sustainable fishing practices, always respecting natural cycles and reproduction periods, which are so dear to her heart.
Her cooking will take you on a journey through marine flavors while introducing your palate to often overlooked yet delicious and affordable products. Léa masters the art of enhancing seafood and vegetables—her second passion—which she highlights in colorful and harmonious plates. Always loyal to seasonal and local produce, she champions a responsible and locally-sourced approach to cooking.
Lea says that chefs play a crucial role in demonstrating that a cuisine can be both delicious and respectful of ecosystems. In this interview we talked about responsible and sustainable fishing as well as the chefs’ roles in the culinary habits to support our ecosystem.
The passion for fishing was passed down to me by my father. Since the age of 5, I have been practicing handline fishing on a boat, and this activity continues to hold an important place in my life. During my childhood, I spent a lot of time in Spain with my grandparents and cousin. Over the years, I sadly observed the decline in fish stocks and the degradation of species due to overfishing.
When I discovered a cooking competition dedicated to sustainable fishing and species preservation, organized by Ethic Ocean, it felt natural for me to get involved. I participated in this European competition in 2019 and won first prize with a dish that was very dear to me: smoked and charred mackerel, accompanied by a celery cannelloni filled with a tartare of grey shrimp seasoned with citrus, all complemented by a smoked celery consommé.
This experience deeply impacted me and reinforced my conviction that promoting responsible fishing and sustainable cuisine is essential.
Sustainable fishing is based on several key principles and practices that help preserve marine ecosystems while meeting human demand.
Contrary to popular belief, there is no actual ‘season’ for fishing.
Although the term is sometimes used to describe periods when a specific fish is abundant, these periods often correspond to reproduction (spawning season), making it crucial to avoid fishing these species during this time to allow stock renewal.
We can name three key criteria which guide responsible fishing:
ORIGINS: It is important to know the stock status in a specific area. For instance, in the Mediterranean, octopus is on the verge of extinction due to overfishing, while in the Atlantic, it is so abundant that it becomes a nuisance, leading to organized culling in some cases.
MATURITY SIZE: This differs from the minimum legal size, known as the ‘mesh size.’ In France, it is legal to fish some species before they have had the chance to reproduce, which jeopardizes their renewal. For example, the gilt-head bream can be caught from 20 cm, even though it only reproduces when it reaches 30–35 cm. It is therefore preferable to choose species that have reached sexual maturity and have already contributed to the reproduction cycle.
FISHING TECHNIQUES: The method used has a significant impact on marine ecosystems and the seabed.
Passive techniques, such as longlines, nets, and hook fishing, are selective and respectful of the seabed. They allow for targeting specific species while limiting bycatch.
Active techniques, such as trawling or purse seining, scrape everything in their path, causing significant damage to the seabed and capturing non-targeted species.
Adopting a sustainable approach means adhering to these criteria and educating consumers so they can make responsible choices. By favoring fish from practices that respect natural cycles and marine ecosystems, everyone can contribute to the preservation of our oceans. »
I work closely with my brother, a fisherman in Marseille, who operates a small vessel (a 12-meter boat). He uses environmentally friendly fishing techniques, including net and line fishing for bluefin tuna, which ensures minimal impact on marine ecosystems and a high level of selectivity in the catch.
Beyond this family partnership, I also strive to build connections with fishermen who adhere to the three criteria of sustainability:
Provenance: Choosing fishing zones where stocks are healthy.
Maturity size: Only fishing species that have already reproduced.
Fishing techniques: Favoring passive methods, such as nets, longlines, or line fishing, which preserve the seabed and limit bycatch.
These collaborations not only help promote responsible fishing but also support fishermen committed to sustainable practices. By showcasing their work through my cooking, I aim to raise public awareness about the importance of consuming seafood sourced from practices that respect ecosystems. »
Ethic Ocean is an NGO dedicated to preserving marine resources and promoting sustainable practices in the fishing and hospitality industries. The organization collaborates with stakeholders in these sectors to raise awareness and guide them toward responsible practices. It is also supported by Olivier Roellinger, who serves as its patron.
As an active member of this initiative, I regularly participate in events organized by Ethic Ocean focused on sustainable fishing. I am part of the “Cuisiniers de la Mer” (Chefs of the Sea), a collective of chefs committed to ocean conservation. My role sometimes includes serving as a jury member for their competitions, which reward initiatives and dishes highlighting sustainable fishing.
Additionally, I organize charity meals for the association, offering a tangible way to both raise awareness among participants and financially support Ethic Ocean’s actions. Being involved with Ethic Ocean allows me to combine my passion for cooking with my commitment to protecting marine resources.
I make a conscious effort to avoid certain species of fish and seafood for ethical and environmental reasons. For example, I do not use salmon, as the majority of current production comes from intensive farming, which raises concerns about quality, both in terms of the fish feed and the treatments used. Instead, I favor alternatives such as trout from a local organic farm, which ensures a product that is both more environmentally friendly and of higher quality.
Every year, Ethic Ocean publishes a guide to species, listing fish and seafood along with information about stock status and fishing practices. This guide helps me select the species I can use in my cooking and avoid those whose populations are at risk.
For instance, I have decided to stop using Mediterranean octopus because its stocks are in decline. I am always mindful of the origin and sustainability of the products I offer. This approach allows me to respect marine ecosystems while raising awareness among my clients about the importance of responsible consumption.
To buy seafood sustainably, it’s essential to follow three key criteria:
1. Know the origin: Choose seafood from well-managed fisheries or responsible aquaculture. Look for certifications like MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) or ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council).
2. Respect maturity sizes: Avoid species that are caught before they have had the chance to reproduce, ensuring population renewal.
3. Choose sustainable fishing methods: Prefer seafood caught using selective, low-impact techniques like pole-and-line fishing, traps, or hand-diving over destructive methods like bottom trawling.
The more curious you are, the better choices you can make! Don’t hesitate to ask your fishmonger or local fishermen at the market:
“Was this fish caught sustainably?” or “When was it harvested?”
By making these efforts, you not only support responsible fishing but also help preserve marine ecosystems for future generations.
I assess the impact of my efforts on the environment and the culinary community by actively sharing my actions and convictions on social media. It’s an excellent way to raise awareness among a broad audience and to demonstrate that sustainable practices are achievable, even in the demanding world of gastronomy.
I am committed to continuous research through specialized NGOs suchv as Ethic Ocean to ensure that my practices align with the latest scientific data and sustainability recommendations. This research not only helps me improve my choices but also enables me to share this knowledge with my peers and clients.
I am also pleased to see that more and more chefs are committing to thoughtful and responsible cooking. These collective initiatives show that a movement is underway. By working together, we have the power to transform the culinary community and foster positive change for the preservation of marine resources and ecosystems.
I know I cannot directly change the fishing industry, but as chefs and cooks, we have a duty to educate consumers to adopt more sustainable consumption habits. This involves raising awareness by explaining the importance of choosing lesser-known species based on stock levels.
It’s a true effort of communication and education, offering new alternatives and promoting products from sustainable fishing practices.
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